Day 8: River Walkin
October 18, 2019
Kilometers: 172.8-197.4
Apple Damn Campsite to Puketi Recreation Area
We were out of camp just after 8am but somehow we’re basically the last ones to leave. We quickly passed the Swiss family with two little kids (keeping our hiking reputation intact for now) and the German and Australian couples. The hike started on a gravel road which soon turned down a hill towards the river. We had to go through this shoe cleaning station to prevent the Kauri dieback that Ethan mentioned earlier.
When we arrived at the river we hopped in and started our way downstream. Today the trail was the river for about 5 kilometers. Ethan and I took our time, taking pictures with the self timer on the camera and enjoying the cold water on our beat up feet.
The small river we were walking in eventually fed into a much bigger river. When we arrived at the confluence a solo hiker, Vicky from the UK, was waiting for others before crossing. River crossings are a leading cause of death in the backcountry in New Zealand. However, looking the correct way before crossing the road here has proven to be a more dangerous hazard for us so far. The three of us interlinked and shuffled across the fast moving river. We later learned a hiker had actually been washed down the river after losing his balance the day before in that exact spot. Always smart to cross rivers with a group.
From there we had two options. We could try to hike upstream on the big river or get off the river and hike along side it in the mud. I waded out to see how deep the river was. Weirdly, the middle was the shallowest part but it was still way too deep to walk up. The mud path it was.
The path was similar to Raetea with the amount of mud and sketchy ledges it had. Ethan was still hiking in his sandals, but soon realized he had to change back into his trail runners.
The muddy ledge went on for awhile. After a bit we had to stop for lunch. We stopped right before a huge climb out of the valley onto a ridge. It was a 200 meter climb in less than a half km, so basically straight up. The first half were stairs but the second half was Raetea like mud.
Ethan showing the altitude change on our app. Still happy.
Ethan during the climb. Not quite as happy.
We both plugged into our music and went at our own paces. After about an hour or so we hit a gravel road, the last 9 kms of the day. I got into camp around 4pm with Ethan coming in a bit after. Almost eight hours of walking had us beat.
The worst part of the day came when I took my socks off. Although I hadn’t felt it while walking I had lost about half the skin on my right pinky toe. I will spare everyone the picture but it is in bad shape. The toenail is still there but it’s hard to imagine it hangs on for too long. Luckily Vicky is a nurse and offered to clean and dress the wound.
Between that injury and Ethan’s myriad of ailments we will 1000% be taking at least one zero day in Kerikeri, probably even two if my skin doesn’t grow back or Ethan’s swelling doesn’t go down. The only problem is we are still 25km from the town. Tomorrow we will make the final push into town and get some much needed rest.
-Alex