Day 75: Today Kicked Our Butts
December 24, 2019
Kilometers: 1830.5-1855.0
Middy Creek Hut to Starveall Hut
Today was the hardest day of hiking on the trip so far and i’m not sure if it’s even really close.
Alarms went off at 6 and everyone got up to eat and pack up. I must have been feeling adventurous when I was resupplying in Havelock because I bought something different for breakfast than bars. I have a big packet of berry muesli, which is the kiwi way of saying granola. I also have a big thing of powdered milk to mix with water to make it like a typical breakfast cereal. It actually was pretty good, I may be saying goodbye to bars for breakfast, we’ll see.
The three of us guys set off at 6:50. We quickly arrived at the first suspension bridge and crossed one at a time as the sun was still rising.
From the suspension bridge we had our first huge climb of the day. It was a 700 meter climb over 4.8kms. By 7:15 I was dripping sweat. Luckily because it was so early the temperature was still cool. Nonetheless, we had to work hard to get up that first mountain. I made it to Rocks Hut in under an hour and a half and sat my pack down to wait for the others and take a break. This hut slept 18 people and had a flushing toilet. This is totally bizarre because there are many public toilets in towns here that don’t even flush.
At 9 we took off again with another climb ahead of us. The next 6kms weren’t nearly as steep but were still hard. At the high point we got some views of the peaks we will be climbing tomorrow. The forest also gave way to an open rocky pathway for a bit.
From the open rocky area we finally started our descent. We reentered forest and walked alongside a few creeks. Not long after we reached Brownings Hut.
This is where we ate lunch. I had a lot of cheese and crackers and a snickers bar. Out of nowhere, Peter pulls out two cans for lunch. Hold up, you have been carrying heavy cans all over these mountains? Even more shocking, one of the cans is just chick peas. I like chick peas as much as the next guy but why have you been carrying nearly a pound of chick peas through the most rugged mountain range on the TA? He agreed it was a very odd thing to do.
When I was finished Charlie still hadn’t arrived so I decided to take a nap in the hut and wait for him to arrive and eat. Two minutes before my alarm went off I was woken by Charlie singing a horrendous rendition of the Star Spangled Banner. I told him to keep his day job, which is funny because none of us have jobs at all.
Just after 1pm I was back on the trail. The next few kilometers we descended through the forest, crossing rivers frequently. The rivers were gorgeous.
We quickly arrived at the next hut, Hackett Hut. There were two guys in the hut who said they were headed up to Starveall hut for the night as well.
From Hackett Hut the next 1.5kms or so were walking upstream in a fairly large creek. The water never got above my thigh but it was easy to see how people could make bad steps, lose their footing and be swept down a ways.
This is where the hardest part of the day began. With my shoes soaked I began the more than 900 meter climb to Starveall Hut. This climb was over only 4.5km of distance so the incline was extremely steep. Not long into the climb my shirt was soaked with sweat again.
The incline never stopped. Each time you would reach what you think would be a flat section the trail turned and went uphill even more steeply. I noticed that my legs were extremely tired, they started to feel like they were filled with lead. I had to take a few breaks and eat to gain more energy.
This section was the hardest part of the trail we have done so far. Already having gone 20+ kms up and down extreme inclines, it being late in the day and the heat of the sun all contributed.
I finally reached the top and yelled in excitement with the extremely small amount of energy I had left. There was another older man already at the hut, he had come from the other direction.
After resting for a bit I took a liter shower and then laid down. Peter arrived not too long after me and Charlie after him. We all agreed that it had been the hardest day of the hike so far.
For Christmas Eve dinner I made instant fried rice and added a Asian flavor packet to it. It was pretty gross. Easily the worst Christmas Eve dinner I’ve ever had.
Although today was hard i’m happy we did it. It will definitely make us stronger hikers as we continue down the South Island. My phone shows that we climbed over 8,500 feet, that is surely the most I have ascended in a day while hiking.
Tomorrow we continue climbing up to the ridge and summit two huge mountains. Should be quite an exciting Christmas Day.