Day 13: A Titanic Day — MakingMiles

October 23, 2019

Paihia Hostel to Russell Walkway Junction Campground

Kilometers: 246.8 to 272.7 (36.4 hiked)

Last nights sleep was terrible. A mattress that felt like I was laying on bricks and strange yet realistic dreams combined for a night of waking up frequently. One of the times I woke up, I was sure I was in my bed at home.

We both woke up at around 7:30am hungry. While dinner last night was delicious, the tapas was far from filling. We gathered our things somewhat slowly as we had to wait until 8:30am to check out and get our deposit for the key back. Nicolas, Charlie, Peter, Toby, and Vikky were waiting outside for us.

Due to severe weather in the forecast, we weren’t able to kayak from Paihia to Waikare Landing. Instead, we would have to walk to Opua, take the ferry to Okiato, and then roadwalk the much longer alternative.

The walk to Opua was a 6km walk mostly along the beach and a cliff trail that followed the many inlets in between the two towns. The weather early in the morning was spectacular and we were able to get some amazing pictures of the water.

The trail eventually lead us to the small town of Opua where we were to catch the ferry. Alex and I were still hungry despite eating both of our usual breakfast bars. While waiting for the ferry, we found a bakery where we were able to get meat pies. Alex got a steak, onion, and cheese pie and I got a steak and onion one. They were absolutely to die for. Mine tasted exactly like my mom’s homemade beef stew tucked inside a crust so flaky that I was afraid it would break just from holding it.

We boarded the ferry for the short cross over to Okiato where our walk would continue.

On the 10 minute trip, the weather turned from sunny and beautiful to windy and stormy. Charlie and I were also able to have a “Titanic” moment.

By the time we unloaded on the other side, we were all wearing our rain gear and being pelted by rain accompanied by strong gusts of wind.

We walked the next 22km on pretty much the same road. It wound through the mountains and back down to inlets frequently. The weather seemed to change every few minutes and stops to put on and take off rain gear became frequent. The terrain we walked though seemed to change from ocean overlooks to something out of Jurassic Park in almost no time.

After our road walk, pretty much everyone’s feet were hurting. Unlucky for us, we still had 8 kilometers to go. 8 kilometers, which would turn into what felt like an eternity.

By this point, the rain picked up again and it was raining consistently. The road we were on fizzled out and turned into a forest track which made for some easy yet muddy tramping. After 4 kilometers or so, the track entered the Papakauri stream for yet another river walk. Normally, we would have been thrilled to walk through a beautiful river.

Walking in the stream as the sun goes down

With it already being 4:00pm and the weather dampening our mood, we set off through the cold river. What we believed to only be a 1km walk through the river actually ended up being closer to 4km. Alex and the rest went up ahead and I stayed with Vikky as we both helped each other get through the last stretch of the day.

Peter, Nicolas, and Charlie enjoying their time in the stream

At almost 7:00pm, cold and miserable, Vikky and I rolled into camp. We set up quickly and Alex got working on dinner. We had Cous Cous with salami and gravy tonight. I’m not sure if it was the cold or the long day but the meal was incredibly satisfying, one of my favorites we have had so far. We are all super exhausted and heading to bed on the early side. Tomorrow should be a good day and hopefully a bit less rainy.

-Ethan