Day 72: Gichardia
December 21, 2019
Kilometers: 1761.4-1782.3
Davies Bay Campsite to Blue Moon Backpackers
It turns out the illnesses that Charlie and I had were very different. I woke up this morning feeling fine. My immune system plus some ibuprofen did the trick. Charlie, on the other hand, is not doing well.
Team Belgium didn’t have much of a plan coming into the trip regarding water purification. They both carry life straws but those are more of an emergency purification system than an everyday system. To their credit they have made it this far without getting, what we call in the States and Canada, beaver fever. However, Charlie has ran out of luck. All of his symptoms point towards him contracting Giardia. Hence, gichardia.
Charlie spent the early morning hours in the toilet. The rest of us woke up around 6:30 and were treated to the sun coming up over the sound. Our tents were soaked from the rain and condensation but we didn’t mind much knowing we’d be staying in real beds tonight.
We left camp at about 7:40 with a short day ahead of us. We had about two kilometers left on the QTC before the road walking began. In those two kilometers we walked by about 150 kids running in the other direction. Charlie and I cheered them on as they ran by. It turns out it was an outdoor adventure summer camp where the campers run a half marathon on the last day. It was quite unexpected.
As the runners at the back of the pack reached us we got to the road. We walked alongside the sound on the road stopping to ask a camp counselor what we had just witnessed.
The walk to the Queen Charlotte Tavern was a quick 7kms from there. We walked on a path right next to the road.
We got to the tavern before 10 and asked them if the whole menu was available at that hour. They said why not, so Charlie, Peter and I ordered hamburgers and fries. They were pretty good but Charlie struggled to get the burger down due to his sickness.
From there we continued on down the road. It took us along a different sound. It was low tide so there was more mud than water in some places.
We were supposed to turn off the road and onto the Link Pathway to get some birdseye views of the sound before heading into the town of Havelock. Unfortunately, the path was closed due to rockslides.
The alternative was a super windy road with sharp turns and absolutely zero shoulder. Walking on this road was about as dangerous as walking over a rockslide. I kept my head on a swivel as I constantly crossed back and forth to stay within view of cars driving both ways as best as possible. Luckily this section only lasted for a few kms before the road straightened out.
We walked into Havelock, who’s claim to fame is the Greenshell Mussel Capital of the World. Here’s proof.
We went to a hostel where we had made reservations in town. It was old, dirty, cramped, weird and a bunch of other negative adjectives. So we used Charlie’s illness as an out and got our money back. We walked across the street to the other hostel and were happy to pay a bit more for a much nicer place, especially considering the next six days we have ahead of us in the mountains.
When we got to town we found out the pharmacy was closed for the day and would not be open tomorrow either. Sorry, chuck. Peter and I went to go buy our resupply for the Richmond Ranges at the four square. When we returned we did laundry. At 3:55 we realized the camping store, which sells propane for our stoves, closed at 4. Peter made a mad dash for the store in nothing but a pair of boxers and a rain jacket. He returned a hero.
Later, I ran out and picked up dinner for the three of us at the takeaway place. We had burgers again. After that we all laid around until it was time for bed.
Today was the summer solstice, the longest day of sunlight all year. However, we had one of our shortest days. Tomorrow, illness pending, we began our trek into the Richmond Ranges. This mountain range is supposed to one of the hardest but most beautiful parts of the entire trail. Earlier this hiking season an American was washed down river during a crossing and had to be retrieved by Search and Rescue. This track is definitely not something to take for granted.
The range receives close to zero cell reception so this will probably be my last post for about a week until I reach St Arnaud. Don’t worry, I’ll fill you in then.