Day 65: The End of The North Island

December 14th, 2019

Kilometers: 1673.2-1695.5

Ngaio Trail Angel House to Island Bay Terminus

Just over two weeks ago, I made the decision that I would be ending my Te Araroa adventure after the North Island. The toll the trail takes on one physically and mentally is immense. I have the utmost respect for everyone who is continuing into the South Island and I would love for some day to be able to finish it. 

Alex and I woke up around 7 this morning to dry tents, a huge relief considering it had been looking like it was going to rain when we went to bed. 

Lois and Rowan, the trail angels, invited us in for a cup of coffee before we set off. We gladly accepted and spent over an hour talking with them about the trail and listening to their stories about section hiking the TA. 

At 8:45, we met up with Matthew at the gas station down the street where we got pies and a Red Bull to start the day. He had left almost everything other than some food and water at a friends house so his pack was extra light.

We then rejoined the trail at the beginning of the Northern Walkway. 

Despite being right in the city, the trail was surprisingly steep and rocky at times. 

The trail ran along a small creek for small time that led us closer to the city center. 

After we crossed over the creek, we climbed up to Weld St. Matthew told us it’s notorious for being one of the steepest roads in all of Wellington. 

Naturally, the TA walks straight up Weld St and it lived up to the hype. 

We climbed over 200 meters on the road and eventually found ourselves walking along a hill which ran into the heart of the city. 

We exited at the top of a street and walked down where we crossed over and found ourselves in the Botanical Gardens. 

The trail was incredibly difficult to follow through the gardens as the Guthook map did not align with the trails through the garden. On more than one occasion, we had to stop and make our best guess as to which way we were actually supposed to be going. 

We managed to do a a pretty decent job finding our way and exited the garden into a cemetery. The cemetery is split in two by the highway so we crossed the bridge and were immediately right in the heart of the Central Business District. Matthew pointed out right away that a funny looking building is actually the building where a lot of parliaments office’s are including the Prime Ministers. 

We were getting a lot of funny looks from people walking in town with our packs on but we were so excited to be there. Wellington even has TA plaques in the ground showing where the trail is!

At around 11:15, Matthew suggested stopping in a food court for some lunch. He got subway and Alex and I both got chicken teriyaki from a sushi place. 

We continued along the shops of Lambton Quay and pushed closer to the hostel we were staying at for the next few nights. 

Upon arrival, we were able to drop off our packs despite our room not yet being ready. 

Alex and I dropped off everything except for a few valuables and a bottle of water each and were able to knock out the last 10km as ultra-lightweight hikers. 

We rejoined the trail at the harbor and continued along Oriental Parade which had some spectacular views. 

We were flying without our packs on through the city center but were slowed down significantly when we reached the end of Oriental Parade and found the Southern Walkway. 

Once again, we began climbing through neighborhoods at a surprisingly fast rate. 

Once we reached about 170 meters, we had a brief glimpse of the airport and the Wellington version of the Hollywood sign in the distance. 

We continued along the Southern Walkway and it eventually began to dip back down to the sea. 
With just over a kilometer left, I texted another trail angel, Ed, who was going to meet us at the Island Bay Terminus. 

Ed hiked the trail last year and was probably the largest single influence of anyone for Alex and I deciding to hike the trail.

The last kilometer was a total blur to me as we walked along the Houghton Bay Coast Road. 

The trail led us into a park where we were slightly confused about where the marker was. Matthew has heard from a friend that the trail used to go down the slide so he opted to go down it. 

Ed was waiting at the marker waving to us and greeted Alex and I with a congratulations and an ice cold beer. It was incredible to be able to meet him after following his journey last year and for him to then bring us beers. 

The feeling of having finished the North Island is unreal. Even as I write this, I still haven’t fully been able to comprehend what we have just accomplished. 

After we finished our beers and took photos, Ed kindly drove us back to our hostel. 

After we got situated in our rooms and showered, Ed texted us that he was meeting another TA hiker, Ada, for beers right near our hostel. 

As soon as the Belgians arrived, we headed to the bar. 

We enjoyed multiple rounds of drinks and pizza while recalling our funniest and most memorable moments of the North Island. 

Despite only doing half, the Te Araroa has been the most incredible adventure. I really struggle to put into words my experience on the trail. The finish was bittersweet as I felt I had accomplished so much, yet am so sad to be leaving Alex, Peter, Charlie, Matthew, and the amazing country of New Zealand. 
It’s been the experience of a lifetime to hike with this group of guys.

I still clearly remember Peter and Charlie coming up and introducing themselves to us at Twilight Beach like it was yesterday and had no idea we would become so close. They are two of the funniest people I have ever met in my life. I spent multiple nights on the trail crying from laughter for the shenanigans these two pulled off. Nobody on the trail can cook a meal quite like the Belgians. They also helped me finally get to use some of the French I “learned” in high school and college.

I have no idea what I would have done on this trail without Alex. Alex is more than my best friend, he’s a brother to me. He’s also the best hiker I know. He motivated me to get up and push myself every day and I can’t imagine having done this trip with anyone else. We achieved things I would have never thought possible at the beginning of the trail. He did a remarkable job of planning out all the sections of the hike, which is not my strong suit. I’m really going to miss him over the next two or so months.

Alex has done an amazing job keeping up to date with the blog and keeping me on schedule with uploads. I can’t wait to see what he writes on the South Island. 

For the last time,

-Ethan