Day 17: An Emotional Roller Coaster
October 27, 2019
Treasure Island Campground to Mt Manaia Club
Kilometers: 353.3-383.3 (33.4km hiked)
The Te Araroa is more that just a physical challenge. Mentally and emotionally, the trail wears you down and can do so quickly.
Alex was a bit kind in his description of Treasure Island Campground, as it fell way short our expectations.
For starters, it was ridiculous overpriced just to pitch a tent. They had showers on the premise but you had to pay for them. It cost 50 cents per three minutes. By the time we went back to get more than a three minute shower each, they had closed... at 5:30pm. There was supposed to be a shop with hot food and a place to resupply, but it was closed for the season. Our night at Treasure Island had been far from our expectations.
We woke up with already low morale to wet rain flys. There is little I despise more than waking up to a wet rain fly because it requires a lot of care to get it without getting the rest of the tent wet and needs time to dry before packing up. Peter and Charlie were low on breakfast and had to scrounge together something as they had been expecting to be able to resupply at the shop.
With morale now even lower, we set off on a long day not knowing if we would be able to resupply or where we would even be able to sleep tonight.
With the tides not being in our favor yet again, we had to take a 10km detour around another portion of Ngunguru Bay. We were off early again and were greeted by more amazing views of mountains capped by clouds which hadn’t yet been burned off by the morning sun.
We had some of the best pace we have had since 90 Mile Beach and cruised through the first section of the road walk. We refueled with a few cookies and then set off uphill for the second half. Our pace slowed a bit as the paved road gave way for gravel and the day heated up. Today reached 75 degrees, which is by far the hottest day we have had so far. Although it might not seem that hot, minimal cloud clover and no wind meant the intensity of the sun was in full effect.
By the time we met back up with the trail, we were all drenched in sweat and our freshly cleaned clothes were clean no more.
We followed the road for just less than two kilometers before coming to Ocean Beach, our first significant beach walk since Day 4.
We followed the ocean for 6.5 kilometers to the Ocean Beach Campground where we stopped for lunch.
With Peter and Charlie being out of lunch, Alex and I shared our excess of food with them. We all enjoyed a nice lunch in a rare shady spot just off the beach before refilling our camelbacks for the massive climb ahead of us.
The climb up the Whangarei Heads was a 440 meter climb over the course of just two kilometers. The first kilometer of the hike had almost no shade and felt incredibly steep. I had to routinely stop to get a sip of water and catch my breath. I also continually stopped to turn around so I could take pictures of the unbelievable view of what we had just hiked.
Halfway through the climb was the first viewpoint, a WWII radar station. There was an amazing view of a rock formation just above the water from near it.
The second kilometer was mildly better as it was shaded and had staircases making for quick elevation gain in a short distance. After the intense climb, I met the others at the top for what can only be described as the highlight of the trip so far. We climbed up onto a rock to reveal the entire coast and the rest of the Heads.
Following the outstanding view, we dropped down 200 meters in just another kilometer only to rise back up to near 400 meters. The hike was grueling.
Our efforts were not rewarded as the second climb featured no view points anywhere close to that of the first. Luckily though, the entire 400 meter drop back down to the beach would be on stairs built by the Department of Conservation. No roots or tricky mudslides to navigate through meant that we were able to reach the bottom in no time at all. At the bottom of the staircase, we all sat, exhausted
We met a French couple who offered to give us all a hitch to a restaurant we had heard about just five kilometers away. After agreeing to do so, Alex and I decided it was best that we not ruin our no hitch streak. We sent our packs with Charlie, Peter, and Phillip and told them we would meet them there. We powered through the 5 kilometers with no packs, only a single water bottle.
Charlie called us telling us of a change of plans. They had found a country club with a fundraiser going on and found a way inside somehow. Not only that, he convinced them to let us set up our tents on their grass volleyball court!
Upon arrival, Alex and I immediately went for the bar and each got a beer. We joined our friends on the balcony for a sunset I will never forget.
After another two beers each, we all set up camp and set off for the restaurant just down the street and ate like kings. I had fish and chips with a corn dog and some chicken fried noodles all followed up with a double scoop of ice cream. We walked back up to the Mt Manaia Club with full stomachs laughing the whole way.
It’s unbelievable how a day that starts off so miserable can end with everything having gone perfect. The views were incredible, the food was to die for, and the people made it all the better.
The Te Araroa truly is an emotional roller coaster, and today we started in a valley and ended up at a peak.
-Ethan